Are you ready to experience the beauty and diversity of Albania? Traveling to Albania means immersing yourself in a land of contrasts. From picturesque villages of Dhermi and Kruje to the breathtaking landscapes of the Alps and the Mediterranean coast, Albania is a stunning country that offers something for everyone.
Despite being one of the poorest countries in Europe, Albania has seen positive developments in recent years, making it an increasingly popular destination for travelers.
In this blog post, we will take you on an unforgettable 10-day road trip to this underrated Balkan country, allowing you to see as much of Albania as possible in a relatively short time. So buckle up and let’s go!
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table of contents
Day 1: Traveling to the Albanian Alps: Theth
2 nights in Theth
3.5-hour drive from Tirana, 160 km (99 mi)
On your first day in Albania, you will either land at the airport in Tirana or cross the Albanian border by car from Montenegro. Your first destination when traveling to Albania is Theth, located in the Albanian Alps. Theth is not a typical mountain village like those in the Austrian or Swiss Alps, but it offers a unique experience with its small and basic guesthouses. Theth is an excellent base for extended hikes in the impressive mountain landscapes of Albania.
- We haven’t seen any ATMs in Theth, so make sure to bring enough cash with you.
- In 2022 the road from Shkoder to Theth has been paved, making it easier to drive to Theth by car. However, the last few hundred meters to the guesthouses are still a rocky dirt road.
- Where to stay?
The accommodations in Theth are mostly very simple, so please do not expect luxurious hotels. In the following overview, you will find our three hotel recommendations. By clicking on the respective hotel, you will be directed to booking.com*
- Where to eat?
There are no supermarkets in Theth. You will find a few mini markets but we recommend to go grocery shopping before you arrive in Theth. The guesthouses usually provide a traditional Albanian breakfast.
Day 2: Hike to Valbona Peak
The hike to Valbona Pass is both popular and demanding, making it one of the highlights in Theth. Finding the trail entry was a bit of a challenge for us. We got a little lost initially, but luckily, a friendly local resident came to our rescue. That’s when we experienced firsthand the incredible hospitality of the Albanian people. We were offered raki and tea and shown the right direction.
The initial few hours of the trail are particularly challenging, with steep ascents and slippery rocks. However, your efforts are rewarded when you reach a vast meadow offering breathtaking panoramic views. Beyond this point, the trail becomes more relaxed. Plan for a total duration of approximately 7-8 hours for the entire hike.
Now here’s the catch. We were hoping to refuel at a couple of cafes along the way, but unfortunately, they were closed during our hike. So, make sure you come prepared with enough food and drinks to keep you fueled up. And don’t forget to bring sturdy hiking boots.
Most hikers choose to start the hike in Theth and continue all the way to the village of Valbona. However, this requires carrying overnight gear and arranging transportation back to Theth. For a simpler plan, we decided to hike to the summit and back. It made things easier without compromising on the adventure.
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Day 3: Visit Church of Theth & Shkoder when Traveling to Albania
1 night in Shkoder
2-hour drive from Theth to Shkoder, 76 km (48 mi)
Today, you will spend the day in Theth before continuing your journey in the evening. In the morning we recommend you to visit the church of Theth, called Kisha e Thethit. It was built in 1892 and has a rich history connected to various Albanian clerics and patriots who served their country. During the Communist dictatorship, the church was closed but fortunately not destroyed.
If you’re looking for another hike when traveling to Albania, we suggest the trail to Grunas Waterfall. It’s an easy hiking trail that will only take around 45 minutes to reach. From the village of Theth, head south while ensuring you stay on the east side of the river and follow the trail through the forest. Otherwise, you’ll end up walking on a dirt road that offers fewer scenic views. Starting your hike early is wise, as this tour is highly popular among hikers in Theth.
In the afternoon, make your way to Shkoder, where you’ll spend the night. Don’t forget to ask your hotel about the parking lot’s location. We spent two hours driving around Shkodër and almost got stuck in the narrow streets because the hotel forgot to inform us that the parking lot wasn’t directly at the hotel.
- Where to stay in Shkoder
In the following overview, you will find our three hotel recommendations. Click on the respective hotel to go directly to booking.com*
- Where to eat in Shkoder
Day 4-5: Traveling to Albania’s best kept secret: Lake Koman
1 night at Lake Koman
2-hour drive from Shkoder to Koman, 55 km (34 mi)
The journey to Lake Koman is quite long and strenuous. However, we strongly recommend visiting the lake when traveling to Albania as the landscape will blow your mind! In fact, it was the highlight of our entire trip to Albania, and we’re confident it will be yours too. It’s hard to believe that Lake Koman is an artificial lake because it feels so wild and rugged.
- Make sure to bring enough LEK in cash in case you want to stay overnight.
How to get to Lake Koman:
There are different options how to visit the Lake. Many people decide to go on a day trip from Shkoder or Tirana. However, as the journey takes quite some time we decided to spend the night at one of the glamping options at the lake.
We booked an overnight stay in one of the glamping cabins at Guesthouse 5 Stinet*. Due to the poor road conditions, we left our car in Shkodër and arranged for a pick-up. Through Booking.com, we messaged Guesthouse 5 Stinet requesting a pick-up from our hotel in Shkodër and a drop-off the next day.
We stayed the night in Shkodër before our visit to the lake. The next morning, a van picked us up in front of our hotel at 6:30 am, and it took us around two hours to reach the ferry station in Koman. We paid 7 Euros in cash (one way) per person for the transportation. The money was collected during the bus drive.
From the ferry station, we took a boat at 9 am that dropped us off at the guesthouse. The ticket for the ferry ride to the guesthouse was already included in the accommodation fee. The next day, we took a boat at 7:45 am back to the ferry station, where a van was already waiting for us and other passengers to bring us back to Shkodër.
Everything went smoothly, and we would definitely do it the same way again.
In case you’re only interested in a day tour to visit Lake Koman:
One day tour: starting from 29 €
One day tour from Tirana*: starting from 148 €
Things to do at Lake Koman:
Above all, you’ll find a lot of peace and quiet at Lake Koman. There are a few activities you can enjoy, such as renting kayaks at the guesthouse, going hiking, or taking a boat trip to the river Shala Lumi i Shales. Unfortunately, the boat trip to this unique river offered by our guesthouse was already fully booked. If you want to see the river, make sure to inform them in advance to reserve a spot for you.
- Where to stay
In the following overview, you will find our three hotel recommendations. By clicking on each hotel, you will be taken directly to booking.com*
- Where to eat
Breakfast and dinner were served at our guesthouse. Make sure to bring enough snacks and drinks for the rest of the day.
Day 5: Visiting a traditional Albanian Bazar in Kruje when traveling to Albania
1 Night in Kruje
3.5-hour drive from Koman to Kruje, 55 km (34 mi)
On day 5, take the first ferry and bus from the guesthouse at Lake Koman back to Shkodër. From there, make your way to Kruje. Kruje is known for having one of the oldest traditional markets in Albania, dating back over 500 years when Albania was ruled by the Ottoman Empire. This market marked the starting point for the official exchange of various goods among merchants. Today, you can find traditionally made carpets, handmade copper and wooden objects, and, above all, an abundance of odds and ends in the bazaar. Don’t worry about missing the bazaar; it’s located on the road leading to the castle.
After exploring the bazaar, grab a bite to eat or enjoy a cup of coffee on one of the terraces before visiting Kruje Castle.
- Where to sleep in Kruje
In the following overview, you will find our hotel recommendations when traveling to Albania and wanting to stay in Kruje. By clicking on the respective hotel, you will be directed straight to booking.com*
- Where to eat
Day 6: Berat – the city of 1000 windows
1 night
2.5-hour drive from Kruje to Berat, 140 km (87 mi)
As soon as you arrive in Berat, you’ll instantly understand why it’s called the city of a thousand windows. Traditional Ottoman houses with numerous windows cover the inclined landscape, offering a unique view. Berat’s old town is one of Albania’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites and, in our opinion, well worth a visit.
What to do and see in Berat:
Explore Mangalem & Gorica:
The Osum River divides Berat’s old town into two neighborhoods, Mangalem and Gorica. Mangalem is the larger of the two, with many restaurants and souvenir shops. Gorica is quieter, and during our walk, we mostly encountered locals. Take your time and stroll through the streets of both quarters. Walk to the viewpoint in Mangalem and cross one of the bridges to explore Gorica as well.
Berat Castle:
Reaching Berat Castle requires a steep 30-minute walk, so be prepared with your best walking shoes. Alternatively, you can drive there, but note that parking is limited. The castle dates back 2,500 years and is still a living castle today, with people residing within its walls. Enjoy the walk through the narrow alleys and take in the views overlooking the beautiful city of Berat and the Osum River. Inside the castle walls, you’ll find guesthouses, restaurants, and souvenir shops. We highly recommend staying here for the night.
The Church of Saint Trinity (Kisha Shen Triadha):
Don’t miss the Church of Saint Trinity if you’ve already climbed up to the castle in Berat.
You have one more day in Berat?
- Where to stay
You can choose to stay either in the historic old town of Mangalem or within the castle walls, as both options have their own charm. Here are our hotel recommendations, and by clicking on the respective hotel, you will be directed to booking.com*
In the old town:
Inside the walls of Berat Castle:
- Where to eat
We highly recommend making a reservation in advance, as many of the restaurants are popular and have limited seating capacity.
Day 7: Gjirokaster – the city of 1000 steps
1 night in Gjirokaster
2.5-hour drive from Berat to Gjirokaster, 180 km (112 mi)
Gjirokaster has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2005. The historic city is no longer a secret and was quite busy when we visited. With its historic old town, traditional Albanian houses, fortress atop the highest point, and the picturesque mountain range Mali i Gjerë framing the town, Gjirokaster is truly worth a visit when traveling to Albania.
What to do and see in Gjirokaster:
The castle of Gjirokaster
The most popular tourist attraction offering a wonderful panoramic view of the entire city.
Entrance fee: 200 LEK per person
Old Town:
Take a stroll along the narrow winding streets and find the perfect souvenir in the many stores and gift shops. If you need a break, there are numerous small cafes and restaurants inviting you to relax.
You want to go exploring the area?
In our opinion, you don’t need the whole day to explore Gjirokaster. If you are up for another excursion, you can make your way to the Blue Eye of Albania, called Syri i Kaltër. It’s a 30-minute drive plus some minute of walking from the parking lot.
- Where to stay
Here are our hotel recommendations when traveling to Albania and wanting to stay in Gjirokaster. By clicking on the respective hotel, you will be directed to booking.com*
- Where to eat
Day 8 to 10: Beach days in Dhermi and Himare
2 nights in Dhermi or Himare
3-hour drive from Gjirokaster to Dhermi, 160 km (100 mi)
It is time to end the trip to Albania with two relaxing beach days. Albania offers beaches you would only expect in Greece or Croatia. Whether you’re looking for secluded bays for some peace and quiet, wide family-friendly beaches or beaches where you can party with your friends, when traveling to Albania you can find a beach for everyone.
We were particularly impressed by the charming mountain village of Dhermi. Although it’s a quiet place, that’s precisely what we liked about it. We enjoyed a peaceful afternoon strolling through narrow alleys, admiring the panoramic views, and having a late lunch and drinks at the hotel restaurant of ZoeHora.
We settled in Himare for our last days at the beach. Himare is a great choice if you prefer easy access to the sea without traveling too far. Moreover, there are plenty of excellent restaurants available, although the place can be a bit touristy as well.
- Where to stay in Himare
Here are our hotel recommendations when traveling to Albania and wanting to stay in Himare. By clicking on the respective hotel, you will be directed to booking.com*
- Where to eat
- Where to stay in Dhermi
We liked Dhermi much better than Himare, so on our next vacation in Albania, we would prefer the idyllic setting of Dhermi over the somewhat touristy Himare. However, it’s a bit further to get to the beach from there.
Here are our hotel recommendations, and by clicking on the respective hotel, you will be directed to booking.com*
- Where to eat
Regarding dining in Dhermi, it’s worth noting that apart from the restaurants at Hotel ZoeHora, we couldn’t find any nice options. The hotel’s restaurants were quite expensive compared to Albanian standards, so you may want to explore other restaurants in Himare.
We hope our itinerary provides you with a good overview of what you can expect during a 10-day trip and helps you plan your own journey to Albania. If you have an additional 2 or 3 days, we recommend spending an extra night in Berat and another night in Tirana. This way, you can shorten the long return journey and explore more of Albania.
Have a look at our other blogposts about this beautiful country, for example about the 10 most important travel tips when traveling to Albania.
Or read one of our blogposts about another country on the homepage of our blog.
